Laminate Flooring

Explore our range of Laminate Flooring, a tough and durable option at more affordable prices. Our Urban Laminate range is made for budget-savvy buyers and anyone chasing a straightforward DIY upgrade. 12 colours to choose from. Underlay is required for all laminate installs to support the boards, improve comfort underfoot, and help the floor sound and feel its best.

Your Questions About Laminate Flooring

Here are answers to some of the most common questions about our laminate flooring products. If you still can’t find what you’re looking for, just reach out to our team here.

Our laminate flooring is installed as a floating floor (click-lock), not glue-down.

That matters because laminate boards are designed to expand and contract slightly with normal changes in temperature and humidity. A floating install lets the floor move as one “sheet” across the room, which helps prevent common issues like peaking, buckling, gapping, or stress on the joints when the seasons change. In simple terms: the floor stays stable long-term because it isn’t locked to the subfloor.

Why Floating Laminate Is A Good Thing

1) Better for natural expansion

Laminate needs an expansion gap around the perimeter (hidden under skirting or scotia). With a floating install, the floor can shift subtly without fighting the subfloor. That’s why floating is the standard method for laminate — it’s how the product is meant to work.

2) Faster installs with less mess

A click-lock floating floor is generally quicker to install than glue-down systems. There’s no adhesive spread, no cure time, and no chemical smell — just a clean, efficient install. That usually means lower installation labour costs compared to floors that require full adhesive coverage.

3) Great for renovations

Floating laminate is ideal when you want to upgrade a space without turning the home into a construction site. It’s commonly installed over a properly prepared subfloor with underlay, and it can be a practical option in bedrooms, living areas, hallways, and rentals.

4) Easier to repair or replace

If a board ever gets damaged, floating floors are typically easier to lift and replace than glue-down floors. You’re not scraping adhesive off a slab, and you’re not permanently bonding the floor to the substrate.

Laminate flooring is a multi-layered engineered board designed to give you a timber look without the cost (or upkeep) of real hardwood. Instead of being one solid material, it’s built like a stack — each layer has a job.

Most laminate flooring is made from:

A tough top wear layer (a clear, resin-based surface) that takes the daily abuse — foot traffic, scuffs, chair movement, pets, etc. This is what gives laminate its reputation for being hard-wearing and low fuss.
A decorative layer (a high-definition printed design) that creates the “timber”, “stone”, or “tile” look. This is how laminate can offer a huge range of colours and styles without the price jump you get with natural materials.
A dense engineered core (made from compressed wood fibres and bonding resins). This core is what gives laminate its rigidity, stability, and that more solid feel underfoot compared to cheaper thin floors.
A balancing backing layer underneath to help keep the board stable and reduce warping over time.

it uses a click-lock joining system (so it installs as a floating floor), it has a high abrasion resistance rating (AC4) for everyday wear, and it’s designed with water resistance (72 hours) to handle real-life spills better than old-school laminate.

Why this construction keeps laminate so affordable

Laminate flooring is popular because it’s basically the best “value trade” in flooring: you get the look people want, with a tough surface, but you’re not paying for solid timber material, sanding, sealing, or ongoing refinishing. And because it’s a floating click system, installation is usually faster and cleaner, which often reduces labour cost versus glue-down options.

Yes. Our laminate flooring comes with:

Lifetime structural warranty (residential) covering manufacturing-related structural faults like warping, twisting, cracking, delamination, or core separation under normal residential use.
Limited wear warranty of 25 years for residential use and 5 years for commercial use, covering the surface wear layer against wearing through to the design layer under normal use.

A couple of important conditions:

Warranty claims can only be made by the original invoiced customer and it’s not transferable.
The warranty depends on correct storage, installation (including correct expansion gaps/trims), and maintenance per the Riverhill installation & maintenance guidelines.

Steam mops warning: using steam mops voids the warranty. LMN Warranty

Our laminate uses a Click System (click-lock) joining system — the boards lock together rather than being glued down.

What that means in practice:

It installs as a floating floor (the floor “moves” as one sheet with normal seasonal expansion/contraction).
It’s typically a faster, cleaner install than glue-down.
You can pair it with different underlays to improve comfort and sound reduction.

No — don’t use a steam mop on laminate flooring. Steam drives heat + moisture into the joins, which is exactly how you end up with swelling, lifting, or peaking over time. Even “water resistant” laminate isn’t designed to have hot vapour pushed into the seams. BISSELL

For your range specifically, it’s also simple: a steam mop voids the warranty.

What the video is basically saying (and why it’s safer):

It recommends using a little white vinegar + warm water in a spray bottle, and spraying it onto a microfiber pad (not soaking the floor). That keeps moisture controlled and off the joints, which is the whole game with laminate. YouTube
The idea is: light mist, microfiber wipe, done — not a bucket-and-mop flood.

Here’s the video: Watch On YouTube

Safe cleaning routine (quick): vacuum/sweep grit first, then a well-wrung damp microfiber mop or spray mop, and wipe spills quickly. Avoid steam, harsh chemicals, and anything that leaves the floor wet.

Yes — laminate flooring is one of the more DIY-friendly floors because it’s a floating click-lock system, not a glue-down install. If you’re reasonably handy, have patience, and your subfloor is flat, you can absolutely do it yourself.

That said, most DIY laminate disasters aren’t from the clicking part — they’re from prep and planning.

When DIY laminate is a good idea

Square/straight rooms, minimal weird angles
You’ve got time to go slow and measure properly
Your subfloor is already fairly flat
You’re happy doing trims/transitions and finishing details

The key things that make or break a DIY job

1) Subfloor prep (the real work)

Laminate needs a flat base. Small dips and high spots cause movement, squeaks, and join stress. If the floor isn’t flat, you’ll fight it the whole way. Patch/level first — it’s cheaper than redoing the floor.

2) Expansion gaps (non-negotiable)

Because laminate expands/contracts, you must leave expansion gaps around walls, door frames, kitchen kicks, posts—everything. If you jam it tight, the floor can peak or buckle later.

3) Underlay + moisture protection

Underlay is required for laminate. On concrete, you also need the right moisture barrier setup (either built into the underlay or as a separate layer). Skipping this is how people shorten the floor’s life.

4) Acclimation

Let the boxes sit flat in the room for a day or two before install (with normal heating/cooling). It helps the boards settle to the environment so the install stays stable.

5) Cutting and protection

Use the right blade and cut carefully to avoid chipping. Keep sawdust away from the click system, and don’t slide tools across installed boards. The finish is tough, but not invincible.

Time + cost reality check

DIY can save you labour costs, but expect:

1–2 full days for an average room if it’s your first time (more if there’s lots of cuts)
Extra spend on tools (jigsaw/mitre saw, spacers, tapping block, pull bar, guillotine cutter if you want to be fancy)
You still need to budget for underlay, trims, and transitions

Neither is “better” across the board. Laminate flooring and timber flooring win in different situations — it comes down to how you live in the space, what you’re willing to maintain, and what you want the floor to feel like long-term.

When laminate flooring is the better choice

Laminate flooring is usually the smarter pick when the priority is durability + low maintenance + value.

Busy homes: If you’ve got kids, pets, or heavy foot traffic, laminate flooring is often the more practical option because it’s designed to handle day-to-day wear without constant stress.
Budget: Laminate flooring gives you the timber look for less — both on product cost and typically on installation cost (floating click systems are generally faster and cleaner to install).
Low maintenance: No sanding, no sealing, no refinishing. You’re basically sweeping/vacuuming and doing a light damp mop.

The trade-off: laminate flooring can’t be refinished like timber. If you seriously damage boards, you replace boards — you don’t sand it back to new.

When timber flooring is the better choice

Timber flooring wins when you care most about authenticity, feel, and long-term “real timber” appeal.

Real warmth and character: Timber has a depth and feel underfoot that laminate can mimic, but not truly match.
Long-term value: Timber is often seen as a premium finish in homes. Depending on the product, it can add a more “high-end” look.
Refinishing potential: Solid timber can be sanded and refinished multiple times. Engineered timber has a real timber veneer top layer, but refinishing depends on veneer thickness (so it’s more limited than solid).

The trade-off: timber costs more, and it’s generally more demanding — it can dent/scratch more easily, and it’s less forgiving with moisture and climate swings if it’s not chosen/installed right.

A simple way to decide

Pick laminate flooring if you want:

best bang for buck, scratch resistance, low maintenance, and a floor that copes with busy life.

Pick timber flooring if you want:

the real timber feel, a premium finish, and you’re okay paying more and maintaining it properly.

If you want to browse timber options, here’s our collection: Engineered Timber Flooring Collection

Yes — laminate flooring can often be installed over existing floors, as long as the existing surface is stable, flat, dry, and in good condition. That’s one of the reasons laminate is popular: you can sometimes skip the messy (and expensive) removal step.

When it works well

Laminate (as a floating click system) can usually go over:

Existing tiles (if they’re solid and the grout lines aren’t creating ridges)
Vinyl / lino (if it’s fully bonded and not soft or bubbling)
Timber floorboards / particleboard (if it’s firm and not flexing)
Concrete (with the correct moisture barrier setup)

The big rule: the floor must be flat

This is what decides everything. If the existing floor has dips, high spots, loose tiles, drummy sections, or a spongy feel, don’t lay laminate over it — you’ll end up with movement, noisy spots, and stressed joints.

What to consider before you do it

Floor height: Adding laminate + underlay can raise the floor level, which can affect doors, appliances, and transitions into other rooms.
Moisture: If you’re going over concrete, you’ll usually need the correct moisture barrier (sometimes built into the underlay).
Underlay matters: Underlay is required and it does two big things:

improves comfort underfoot

helps reduce sound/footfall noise (especially helpful upstairs or in multi-story homes).

The exact noise reduction depends on the underlay you choose and the building, so don’t treat any single % claim as universal — but yes, the right underlay can make a noticeable difference.

Do not install over carpet: Laminate needs a hard, stable base. Carpet/underfelt is too soft and will cause movement and failure.

Quick test (simple)

If you can walk across the existing floor and feel bounce, hear hollow sections, or see loose areas, it needs fixing or removing first.

If you tell me what the existing floor is (tile, vinyl, timber boards, etc.) and whether it’s concrete underneath, I’ll tell you if it’s a safe “install over” job or a rip-up job.

Yes — if you’re installing laminate flooring as a floating floor (click system), you need underlay. It’s not an optional “extra”. Underlay is what helps the floor feel right, sound right, and perform properly over time.

Why laminate flooring needs underlay

Supports the click-lock joints so the boards aren’t flexing and stressing at the joins
Improves comfort underfoot (less hard/“tap” feeling)
Reduces noise (footfall + that hollow floating-floor sound)
Adds moisture protection on concrete when the underlay includes a vapour barrier / film

Which underlay is best?

It depends on your building and what you care about most.

1) Standard option: 3mm silver foam underlay

Best for: most houses, rentals, typical residential installs, and any job that doesn’t need formal acoustic compliance.

Why it’s good: it’s affordable, simple to install, and usually includes a moisture film plus basic noise reduction.

2) Upgrade option: 3mm acoustic rubber underlay (certified)

Best for: apartments/strata requirements, upstairs floors, or anyone who wants the best sound reduction.

Why it’s good: it’s higher performing for acoustic noise reduction and is typically the type you’d use when the building requires acoustic certification or you’ve got a noisy subfloor.

Quick way to choose (no fluff)

House on slab / no strata rules: go 3mm silver foam (value + moisture film).
Upstairs, townhouse, apartment, or you hate footstep noise: go 3mm acoustic rubber.
If strata/body corp mentions acoustic ratings: don’t guess — pick the certified acoustic rubber so you comply.

If you tell me whether it’s concrete slab or timber subfloor, and whether it’s upstairs/apartment, I’ll tell you the best pick in one line.

Affordable Laminate Flooring – Durable, Scratch-Resistant Value

Top-down view of Kandos Grey Urban Laminate Floors 12mm in Kandos Grey colour neutral tone flooring sample

Why Choose Laminate Flooring?

Our lamiante flooring is our most durable and afforable floring. great for with standing chair scrapes, kids running through the house, pets, bags getting dropped at the door, and the general grind of a busy home.

One of the biggest reasons people choose laminate is the look. You get that real timber style — clean grain, modern colours, and a nice matte finish — without the ongoing upkeep that comes with solid hardwood. No sanding, no sealing, no stressing about refinishing down the track. It’s the “timber vibe” without the timber price tag and maintenance.

Laminate is also a go-to for anyone who wants a fast, straightforward install. Most ranges are click-lock, which means less mess and a quicker turnaround compared to floors that need glue-down methods. It’s a great DIY option in the right spaces, and it’s ideal for bedrooms, hallways, living rooms, and rentals where you want maximum value per square metre.

If you’re chasing a floor that looks good long after install day — and you want durability, style, and affordability in one — laminate is hard to beat. Underlay is required to support the boards and help the floor feel and sound its best underfoot.

Low-maintenance laminate flooring for busy areas

The big reason people choose laminate isn’t because it’s “fancy” — it’s because it’s affordable, tough, and easy to live with. That’s the whole point.

Laminate is low maintenance because the top surface is a sealed, wear-resistant layer designed to take day-to-day punishment without needing ongoing treatments. You’re not oiling it, sanding it, sealing it, or babying it like real timber. When it gets dirty, you clean it and move on. That’s why it’s a popular choice for busy areas like hallways, living rooms, rentals, kids’ bedrooms, and anywhere that gets constant foot traffic.

Wear, scuffs, and scratches: A good laminate is made to handle abrasion better than most people expect. Riverhill’s Urban Laminate is rated AC4 (abrasion resistance), which is exactly the kind of spec you want when the floor is getting walked on all day.

Spills and everyday mess: Laminate is simple because most mess stays on the surface. You’re not dealing with a porous material that needs special products. And for real-life spills, the Urban Laminate brochure calls out 72-hour water proof (water resistance) — meaning you’ve got breathing room to wipe things up without the floor instantly swelling or staining like older-style laminates.

(Still: it’s not a “flood it and forget it” product — no hard floor is.)

Easy cleaning routine: Laminate doesn’t need anything complicated:

A quick sweep/vacuum to remove grit (grit is what causes wear over time).
A light damp mop when needed (not soaking wet).
Avoid steam mops and harsh chemicals — they’re pointless and can shorten the life of any floating floor.

Affordable without looking cheap: This is the other reason laminate stays popular. You get a timber look that suits modern Aussie interiors without paying engineered timber prices. And you’ve got 12 colour options in the Urban range — a mix of timber-inspired looks and modern neutrals (Spotted Gum, Blackbutt, Bianco, Sand Oak, Ash Grey, Natural Oak, Country Oak, Ivory White, Seashell, Kandos Grey, Mystic Grey, Walnut).

How much does laminate flooring cost?

Here’s a realistic Australia cost breakdown for laminate flooring (AUD). Prices swing a lot based on thickness/brand, access, and how much prep the subfloor needs.

Laminate boards (supply only)

Budget: $20–$30/m²
Mid: $30–$45/m²
Premium: $45–$60/m²

Installation labour (floating/click laminate)

Simple areas: $25–$35/m²
More complex (lots of cuts/doorways): $35–$50/m²

Underlay (required)

Basic foam: $3–$6/m²
Better acoustic/comfort: $6–$12/m²
Apartment acoustic-spec underlay can be higher.

Typical “installed” starting range (before extras):

$55–$105/m² is the common reality.

2) The extras that change the quote a lot

Trims / finishing

Scotia or quad (if you’re not removing skirting): $4–$10 per lineal metre (supply) + labour
Transition strips (doorways): $25–$80 each installed (varies by type/colour matching)
Stair nosings (if needed): $40–$150 each installed

Subfloor + moisture

Moisture barrier (often required on concrete, sometimes integrated with underlay): $2–$6/m²
Floor levelling / patching (biggest budget killer):

Minor patching: $5–$15/m²

Proper levelling: $15–$40+/m²

Remove & dispose existing flooring

Easy removals: $10–$20/m²
Glued-down / tough removals: $20–$35+/m²

Other common add-ons

Door trimming (if the new floor height catches): $20–$60 per door
Furniture moving: sometimes included, often extra
Delivery: varies (or free over a threshold)

3) Quick example totals (so you can sanity-check quotes)

Assume 50m² floor area, normal home:

Budget (easy install, minimal trims, no levelling)

Product $25 + Install $30 + Underlay $4 = ~$59/m²
≈ $2,950 + a few hundred for trims/doorways

Typical (most homes)

Product $35 + Install $40 + Underlay $6 = ~$81/m²
+ trims + any removal

Problem subfloor / lots of prep

Add levelling $25/m² and removal $20/m²
That’s +$45/m² on top of your base install

4) Honest truths

Laminate is chosen because it’s affordable and low maintenance, but the “cheap” job becomes expensive when there’s removal + levelling + heaps of trims.
Underlay is not optional for laminate — it affects feel, sound, and performance.

Angled view of Country Oak Urban Laminate Floors 12mm in Country Oak colour warm tone flooring sample

Best Waterproof Vinyl Flooring Options for Bathrooms and Laundries

We hope this helps!

Here are our top 3 tips when it comes to Laminate flooring.

Top Tips ᯓ★

Cheap underlay = hollow sound and more movement. If you hate that “clicky” noise or you’re upstairs/apartment, spend a bit more on a better acoustic underlay. It’s the cheapest upgrade that changes how the floor feels every day.

Laminate flooring needs room to move. A proper expansion gap (then covered with skirting/scotia) helps prevent peaking, buckling, or “tight” spots later.

Most laminate flooring issues come from bumps or dips underneath. A quick level check and minor prep is cheaper than fixing squeaks, movement, or separating joins later.

Brisbane Click & Collect + Australia-Wide Shipping

72 Hours Of Water Resistance - Laminate Flooring

Most people avoid laminate because they assume one spill will ruin it. That’s old-school laminate. Modern ranges are built differently — and our 72-hour water resistance laminate is made to handle real life: drink spills, wet shoes, kids’ mess, and the occasional “oh crap” moment when something gets left on the floor longer than it should.

What “72 hours water resistance” actually means: the surface and locking system are designed to slow down moisture penetration, giving you a genuine buffer window to clean up spills before they cause swelling or damage. It’s not an excuse to flood the room or install laminate in showers — but for everyday accidents in busy homes, it’s a huge upgrade in peace of mind.

A Floating Floor That’s Fast, Clean, And Practical

This laminate is installed as a floating floor, which means the boards click together and sit over an underlay rather than being glued to the subfloor. That’s why laminate is so popular for quick upgrades — it’s typically faster to install, less messy, and easier to replace down the track if you ever need to. It’s also a great option for renovations because it can often be installed over a properly prepared existing surface.

Pair It With The Right Underlay For Better Sound Reduction

Underlay isn’t just a “nice to have” — it’s what makes a laminate floor feel and perform properly. Because it’s a floating system, you can choose an underlay that suits your home and improves comfort:

Sound reduction: the right underlay helps reduce footfall noise and that hollow “tap” sound, especially in hallways and open-plan areas.
More comfort underfoot: it adds a subtle cushion that makes the floor feel nicer in busy living spaces and bedrooms.
Better stability: it supports the locking system and helps the floor sit flat, which is important for long-term performance.

If you’re installing upstairs or in an apartment, choosing a higher-performing acoustic underlay can make a noticeable difference to how the floor sounds day-to-day.

Bottom line: if you want the timber look, a low-maintenance surface, and extra protection from everyday spills — 72-hour water resistant laminate is a smart middle ground between budget pricing and real-world durability.