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9.5mm Herringbone Hybrid Flooring
The classic zigzag pattern that's been turning heads for centuries – now in 100% waterressistant and silica-free hybrid flooring. Herringbone hybrid flooring gives you the timeless look of traditional parquetry without the hefty price tag or moisture worries.
Our 9.5mm herringbone hybrid flooring range comes in multiple modern colours, with a stunning herringbone pattern that lifts any space. All of our herringbone SPC boards include built-in underlay, making installation quicker and easier.
It’s our most premium hybrid range. The boards are incredibly durable, waterproof and scratch-resistant, and every floor in this range includes a minimum 20-year residential warranty for extra peace of mind.
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French Oak SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Natural Blackbutt SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Lime Ash SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Pacific Spotted Gum SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Natural Spotted Gum SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Snow Grey SPC Hybrid Floorboards Herringbone 7.5+2mm -
Your Questions About Herringbone Hybrid Flooring
Here are answers to some of the most common questions about herringbone hybrid flooring. Our suppliers are members of the Australasian Timber Flooring Association (ATFA), so we stay across industry standards and best practices - so the advice here is based on both manufacturer guidelines and our own hands-on experience helping customers choose the right flooring.
If you still can't find what you're looking for, just reach out to our team here.
What is herringbone flooring?
Herringbone is a pattern, not a type of flooring material. The planks are laid at angles to create a zigzag look – kind of like the bones of a fish (that's where the name comes from). Each plank meets the next one at a 90-degree angle, forming a distinctive V-shape that repeats across the floor.
The pattern has a long history. According to architectural historians, herringbone parquetry dates back to 16th century France, where it was used in grand estates and chateaux. The Palace of Versailles features herringbone floors that are still admired today. The pattern became popular in England during the Victorian era and spread throughout Europe and eventually to Australia, where it appeared in heritage homes and public buildings.
For most of its history, herringbone was made from solid timber – small blocks of wood carefully cut and laid by skilled craftsmen. It was expensive and time-consuming to install, which is why you mainly saw it in wealthy homes and important buildings.
These days, you can get the herringbone pattern in all sorts of flooring materials: solid timber, engineered timber, laminate, vinyl, and hybrid flooring. This has made the look much more accessible. You no longer need a mansion-sized budget to get herringbone floors in your home.
What is hybrid flooring? A quick explanation
Before you go any further into your project, let's make sure we're on the same page about what hybrid flooring actually is.
Hybrid flooring is a relatively new type of flooring that combines features from laminate and vinyl. It's called 'hybrid' because it brings together the best bits of both:
The core: Hybrid flooring has a rigid stone plastic composite (SPC) or wood plastic composite (WPC) core. This makes it stable, strong, and 100% water ressistant. laminate, on the other hand, which can swell and warp if it gets wet, hybrid flooring can handle moisture without damage.
The wear layer: On top of the core, there's a printed design layer (usually made to look like timber) and a clear protective wear layer. Quality hybrid flooring uses high-definition printing and embossed-in-register (EIR) technology, which means the texture you feel matches the grain pattern you see. This makes it look and feel more realistic than older vinyl or laminate products.
The backing: Our hybrid flooring has an attached underlay on the bottom. This provides cushioning, sound absorption, and a bit of thermal comfort. (warmer to step on)
The locking system: Hybrid planks click together using a tongue-and-groove or click lock or 5G Click locking system. This allows for floating installation – the floor sits on top of the subfloor rather than being glued or nailed down.
Hybrid flooring became popular in Australia around 2015-2016 and has grown rapidly since then. It's now one of the most commonly chosen flooring types for Australian homes, particularly in areas where moisture resistance matters (kitchens, bathrooms, laundries, and open-plan living spaces that connect to these areas).
Fun Fact 💡 The term Hybrid is actually only used by Aussies!
Can you do herringbone with hybrid flooring?
Absolutely. Herringbone hybrid flooring has become really popular over the last few years. Based on our sales data, herringbone now makes up around 15-20% of our hybrid orders – up from less than 5% back in 2020. You get the classic look of a herringbone pattern with all the practical benefits of hybrid: waterproof, stable, and easier to install than traditional timber herringbone.
Our 9.5mm herringbone hybrid range comes with a click-lock system designed specifically for the herringbone pattern. The planks are shorter than standard hybrid boards (that's normal for herringbone – typically around 600mm x 120mm compared to 1200mm+ for standard planks) and they're cut at precise angles so they fit together properly.
One thing worth knowing: herringbone planks are specifically made for the pattern. You can't just buy regular hybrid planks and cut them into herringbone yourself. The angle cuts and locking mechanisms need to be factory-made to meet the tolerances required for a proper installation. The click-lock system on herringbone planks is engineered differently to accommodate the angled joins.
This is actually one of the advantages of hybrid herringbone over traditional timber herringbone. With solid timber, installers had to cut each piece precisely on site and glue everything down. With hybrid, the precision cutting is done at the factory, and the click-lock system means installation is faster and more forgiving.
Is herringbone still in style in 2025?
Short answer: yes. Herringbone has been popular for hundreds of years, and it's showing no signs of slowing down.
Industry publications like Flooring Magazine and Architecture & Design have consistently listed herringbone among the top flooring trends for Australian homes in recent years. The pattern appears regularly in interior design magazines, on Pinterest boards, and in the portfolios of Australian architects and designers.
We've seen this reflected in our own sales. Demand for herringbone hybrid has grown steadily year-on-year, and it's now one of our most-requested products. Interior designers we work with tell us they're still specifying it regularly for both residential and commercial projects.
Part of herringbone's appeal is that it works in both traditional and contemporary spaces. You can use it in a Victorian terrace and it looks authentic. You can use it in a modern minimalist home and it adds warmth and visual interest. That versatility is probably why it's lasted so long.
What colours are trending for herringbone in 2025?
The pattern itself is timeless. What changes is the colour and finish preferences.
Right now in 2025, we're seeing strong demand for:
Natural oak tones: Warm, honey-coloured oaks that look like natural European timber. These work well in both modern and traditional settings and pair nicely with the warm neutral colour palettes that are popular in Australian interiors right now.
Light neutrals: Pale, almost whitewashed looks. These brighten up spaces, make rooms feel larger, and suit the coastal aesthetic that many Australian homeowners love. Our French Oak herringbone is popular for this reason.
Warm mid-tones: Not too light, not too dark – the 'Goldilocks' zone. Spotted gum colours and warm walnut tones are doing well. These hide dirt and wear better than very light or very dark floors.
The darker, more dramatic colours (deep espresso, almost-black stains) are less popular than they were a few years back. They still have their place in certain design schemes, but the overall market has shifted toward warmer, more natural tones.
If you're worried about herringbone going out of fashion – don't. It's survived centuries of changing tastes. It'll outlast most interior design trends. Choose a colour you love, and the pattern will work for decades.
Is herringbone hybrid flooring floating or glue-down?
Our herringbone hybrid flooring is designed as a floating floor. The planks click together and sit over an underlay – they're not glued or nailed to the subfloor.
This is one of the big advantages of hybrid herringbone compared to traditional timber herringbone, which usually needs to be glued down. Here's why floating installation is often the better choice:
Faster installation: No waiting for adhesive to cure. The floor can be walked on immediately after installation.
Less mess: No glue means no sticky residue, no fumes, and easier cleanup.
Install over existing floors: You can float hybrid herringbone over tiles, concrete, existing timber, or particleboard without major prep work (as long as the subfloor is level and sound).
Easier repairs: If you ever need to replace a damaged section, it's possible to unclick and remove planks without destroying them. With glue-down, you'd have to cut out the damaged pieces.
Rental-friendly: A floating floor can be removed when you move out, which makes it an option for renters who have their landlord's permission.
When might glue-down be better?
That said, some installers do prefer to glue down herringbone hybrid in certain situations:
Large open-plan spaces: For areas over 40 square metres in a single run (without doorways or transitions), glue-down can help prevent movement and ensure the floor stays flat.
Heavy furniture or equipment: In commercial settings or rooms with very heavy items (like a piano), glue-down provides extra stability.
Acoustic performance: In apartments or townhouses where sound transfer is a concern, glue-down installation (especially with acoustic adhesive) can reduce noise better than floating.
Underfloor heating: Some manufacturers recommend glue-down for use with underfloor heating systems, as it provides better heat transfer.
The Australian Standard AS 1884-2021 (Floor coverings – Resilient sheet and tiles) provides guidance on subfloor preparation and installation requirements for both methods. If your installer recommends glue-down for your specific job, it's worth considering – they've probably got a good reason.
Either way, make sure whoever installs your floor follows the manufacturer's guidelines. If you're not sure what's best for your space, get in touch and we can help you work it out.
Is herringbone flooring more expensive?
Yes, herringbone typically costs more than standard plank flooring. Let's break down where the extra costs come from:
Product cost
Herringbone planks are smaller and require more precise manufacturing than standard planks. Each piece needs to be cut to exact dimensions with tight tolerances so the pattern comes together properly. The click-lock system also needs to be engineered specifically for angled joins.
As a result, the per-square-metre price is usually 10-20% higher than standard planks in the same product range. For example, if a standard hybrid plank is $50/sqm, the herringbone version of the same product might be $55-60/sqm.
Installation cost
This is often where the bigger difference is. Laying a herringbone pattern takes more time and skill than laying straight planks. There's more cutting, more measuring, and more fiddling to get the pattern right. The starting layout is critical – if you don't get the centre line right, the whole floor will look off.
Based on quotes we've seen from installers in our network across Queensland, New South Wales, and Victoria, professional installation for herringbone typically costs 20-40% more than standard plank installation. If straight planks cost $30/sqm to install, herringbone might be $36-42/sqm.
The exact price depends on your location, the complexity of the room (lots of angles and doorways = more cutting = more time), and the installer's experience with herringbone.
Wastage
You'll need to order more product to account for cuts and waste. For standard plank flooring, ATFA recommends adding 5-10% extra on top of your measured area. For herringbone, that jumps to 10-15%.
Why more waste? The herringbone pattern requires angled cuts at the edges of the room, and many of those offcuts can't be reused. If your room has lots of angles, alcoves, or irregular shapes, the waste can be even higher.
We always suggest erring on the higher side of the wastage range. It's better to have a few boxes left over than to run short partway through installation.
Is it worth the extra cost?
That depends on what you're after. Herringbone makes a statement. It's a design feature, not just a functional floor covering. If you want a floor that stands out, adds a sense of craftsmanship to a room, and becomes a talking point, the extra investment can absolutely be worth it.
If you just need a practical floor and you're not fussed about the pattern, standard planks will do the job for less. There's nothing wrong with that – a good quality standard hybrid floor looks great and performs well.
One middle-ground approach we sometimes see: customers use herringbone in one feature area (like the main living space or entryway) and standard planks in bedrooms and secondary areas. You get the visual impact where it matters most while keeping overall costs down.
Is herringbone flooring easy to lay?
Honestly? It's harder than laying standard planks.
With regular hybrid flooring, you're basically clicking planks together in straight rows. You start at one wall and work your way across. Most confident DIYers who've done a bit of research can handle that. Herringbone is a step up in complexity.
What makes herringbone harder?
Finding the centre line: With herringbone, you don't start at a wall – you start at the centre of the room and work outward in both directions. Getting that centre line right is critical. If it's off by even a small amount, the pattern will look crooked against the walls.
Keeping the pattern square: As you build out the herringbone pattern, small errors can compound. You need to check frequently that the pattern is staying square and adjust as you go.
Edge cuts: Where the herringbone meets the walls, you'll need to make angled cuts. These need to be measured and cut precisely for a clean finish. There are more cuts overall, and more of them are at non-standard angles.
Click-lock technique: The click-lock system on herringbone planks works a bit differently than standard planks. You're joining pieces at angles, which can take some getting used to.
Can DIYers install herringbone hybrid?
Yes, but with caveats.
If you're a handy DIYer who's installed flooring before and you're comfortable with detailed, fiddly work, you can probably tackle it. Here's what we'd recommend:
• Watch installation videos first – there are good ones on YouTube from flooring manufacturers. Watch several, not just one.
• Read the manufacturer's installation guide thoroughly. We provide these with our products.
• Do a dry lay first – lay out the first few rows without clicking them together to make sure your layout works before you commit.
• Take your time. Seriously. Don't try to rush a herringbone install.
• Start with a smaller room if possible, so you can learn the technique before tackling a larger space.
If you're new to flooring installation, if you're doing a large or complex space, or if you want guaranteed results, we'd suggest getting a professional installer. A good installer will have done herringbone many times before – they'll get the pattern right and avoid costly mistakes.
Based on feedback from our customers, DIY herringbone installs typically take about twice as long as standard plank installs for the same area. Budget your time accordingly.
Herringbone hybrid flooring installation tips
Whether you're installing yourself or hiring a professional, here are some key things to know about herringbone installation.
Subfloor preparation
The subfloor needs to be:
Level: Most manufacturers specify a maximum deviation of 3mm over 3 metres. High spots should be ground down; low spots should be filled with levelling compound.
Dry: Concrete slabs should have a moisture reading below the level specified by the flooring manufacturer (usually around 75% relative humidity or a calcium chloride reading of 3 lbs per 1000 sq ft). New concrete needs adequate curing time – typically at least 60-90 days.
Clean: Remove all dust, debris, paint drops, and anything else that could prevent the floor from sitting flat.
Structurally sound: Fix any squeaky boards, loose tiles, or cracked concrete before installing.
These requirements apply to all hybrid flooring, not just herringbone. But with herringbone, subfloor issues are more likely to cause visible problems because the pattern is more complex.
Acclimatisation
Before installation, the flooring should be acclimatised to the room's temperature and humidity. This usually means leaving the unopened boxes in the room for 24-48 hours before installation. Check your product's specific instructions – some manufacturers have different requirements.
Don't skip this step. If the flooring is installed at a significantly different temperature than the room will be at in use, it can expand or contract after installation, potentially causing gaps or buckling.
Expansion gaps
Hybrid flooring expands and contracts with temperature changes. You need to leave expansion gaps around the perimeter of the room – typically 8-10mm from all walls, door frames, and fixed objects. These gaps are covered by skirting boards or scotia, so they won't be visible.
For herringbone, the expansion gap requirement is the same as for standard planks, but you need to be extra careful because the angled edge cuts can look messy if they're not properly covered by the trim.
Which direction should herringbone run?
The direction of your herringbone pattern affects how the room feels. Generally:
• Running the herringbone parallel to the longest wall or toward the main light source tends to look best.
• In a hallway, running the pattern along the length makes the space feel longer.
• Consider what you see when you walk into the room. The pattern should 'greet' you in a way that looks balanced.
There's no single right answer – it depends on the room shape, lighting, and personal preference. Your installer can help you decide, or you can do a dry lay with a few planks to see what looks best before committing.
What are the disadvantages of herringbone flooring?
We've covered a few already above, but here's the complete rundown of herringbone's drawbacks:
Higher cost. Both the product and installation cost more than standard planks. You'll also have more wastage. For a typical room, you might be looking at 20-35% more overall cost compared to standard planks.
Harder to install. It takes more time and skill. DIY installation is possible but not as straightforward as standard flooring. If you get it wrong, the mistakes are very visible.
Repairs can be tricky. If you damage a plank in the middle of a herringbone floor, replacing it is more complicated than with straight planks. With straight planks, you can often unclick a row and work your way to the damaged piece. With herringbone, the interlocking pattern means you may need to disassemble a larger area. Some manufacturers provide guidance on spot repairs, but it's fiddly work and often best left to professionals.
Not ideal for very small rooms. The herringbone pattern needs space to breathe. Interior designers generally recommend herringbone for rooms of at least 10-15 square metres. In a tiny bathroom, ensuite, or laundry, the pattern can look cramped and busy rather than elegant. It works best in medium to large spaces where the pattern has room to repeat several times and create visual flow.
Pattern alignment matters a lot. If the pattern isn't centred properly or the lines aren't straight, it's very noticeable. With standard planks, minor installation imperfections can be hidden. With herringbone, poor alignment jumps out at you. This is why professional installation is often worth the extra cost.
Can clash with busy interiors. Herringbone is a visual statement. If your room already has lots of patterns (patterned wallpaper, busy rugs, detailed tile splashbacks), adding herringbone flooring can create visual overload. It tends to work best when other elements in the room are relatively simple.
Transitions can be tricky. Where your herringbone floor meets other flooring types (like tiles or carpet), you'll need transition strips. Getting these to look right with the angled herringbone pattern requires careful planning.
None of these are dealbreakers – they're just things to be aware of going in. If you like the look and you're prepared for the extra cost and installation considerations, herringbone is a great choice that most people are very happy with.
Is herringbone better with or without a border?
This is purely a design choice – there's no right or wrong answer. Let's look at both options.
Herringbone with a border
A border is typically 2-3 rows of planks laid straight around the perimeter of the room, framing the herringbone field in the centre.
The look: More formal, traditional, and finished. The border creates a clear frame that defines the space. It's the way herringbone was traditionally done in European parquet floors.
Practical benefits: Borders make the edge cuts easier. You're cutting straight planks to meet the wall, not angled herringbone pieces. This can simplify installation and reduce waste.
Where it works: Heritage homes, period properties, formal living rooms, dining rooms. If you look at properties listed by the National Trust or in heritage suburbs, many feature bordered herringbone parquetry.
Herringbone without a border
The herringbone pattern runs right to the walls (or to the skirting boards, technically – there's still an expansion gap hidden underneath).
The look: More modern, seamless, and expansive. The pattern flows without interruption, which can make the room feel bigger and more open.
Practical considerations: Edge cuts are more complex because you're cutting the herringbone pattern at angles to meet the wall. This takes more time and skill.
Where it works: Modern homes, open-plan living areas, contemporary renovations. This is the more popular choice in 2025 – it's what we see in most of our customer projects and in current design publications.
How to decide
Think about the style of your home and the room you're flooring:
• Older homes with detailed architraves, ornate cornices, and traditional features often suit a border
• New builds and modern renovations usually look better without one
• If you're mixing herringbone with standard planks in other rooms, a border can help create a clear transition
Your installer can show you examples of both if you're on the fence. Or look at photos online – Pinterest and Houzz have thousands of herringbone floor images that can help you decide what appeals to you.
Premium Engineered Australian Timber – Built To Last At The Best Price
The Difference Between Chevron & Herringbone Flooring
These two patterns get confused all the time, and it's easy to see why – they look similar at first glance. But the difference is in how the planks meet, and it affects the overall look quite a bit, you see the real differnce is...
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Herringbone pattern
The planks are rectangular – cut at 90 degrees on each end, just like a regular floorboard. When you lay them, the end of one plank butts up against the side of the next plank. This creates a staggered zigzag pattern where the corners don't meet in a point.
If you look closely at a herringbone floor, you'll see that each 'V' in the pattern is slightly offset from the next. The pattern has a bit more movement and texture to it.
Chevron pattern
The planks are cut at an angle on each end – usually 45 degrees, though sometimes 60 degrees. When you lay them, the angled ends meet in a perfect point. This creates a continuous V-shape that runs in a straight line down the room.
Chevron looks more formal and linear. The points create clean, unbroken lines that draw the eye through the space. It's often described as looking more 'refined' or 'elegant' than herringbone.
Which one should you choose?
Both patterns are classics and both look great. Here are some practical considerations:
Both patterns are classics and both look great. Here are some practical considerations:
Installation complexity: Chevron is trickier to install because those angled cuts need to line up perfectly. If the points don't meet cleanly, it's very obvious. Herringbone is slightly more forgiving.
Waste: According to ATFA guidelines and installer feedback we've collected, chevron typically results in 12-15% waste compared to 10-12% for herringbone. Those angled end cuts mean more offcuts that can't be reused.
Visual effect: Herringbone has a busier, more textured look. Chevron is cleaner and more directional. In a narrow hallway, chevron can make the space feel longer because your eye follows the points. Herringbone can make a room feel wider because the pattern spreads out in both directions.
Availability: Herringbone hybrid is more widely available than chevron hybrid. Most of the chevron options on the market are engineered timber rather than hybrid. We stock both herringbone hybrid and chevron engineered timber if you want to compare.
Not sure which herringbone colour suits your space?
Order free samples and see them under your own lighting before you commit. Order samples →
Picking the Right Herringbone Colour for Your Space:
Herringbone is a statement pattern. The colour you choose will set the tone for the whole room – maybe the whole house if you're running it through multiple spaces. It's worth spending some time getting this right.
I've helped hundreds of customers choose herringbone colours, and we've seen what works (and what people regret). Here's what we've learned...
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Light tones (pale oak, whitewashed) make rooms feel bigger and brighter. Great for coastal vibes and modern spaces. They show scuffs but hide dust.
Mid tones (natural oak, spotted gum, warm walnut) are the all-rounders. They hide dirt best, work with most furniture, and suit almost any home. If you're unsure, start here.
Dark tones (espresso, charcoal) look dramatic but show every speck of dust and pet hair. Stunning when clean – but they need constant attention.
The lighting in your room matters more than you think. A colour that looks warm online can look completely different under your downlights or in a south-facing room. This is why we always recommend ordering samples and leaving them on the floor for a few days. Look at them in morning light, evening light, and everything in between.
Our best sellers right now: French Oak (light, airy, coastal) and Natural Blackbutt (warm, natural, hides wear well).
Not sure which colour suits your space? Order free samples or send us photos of your room – we're happy to give you our honest opinion.
How much does Herringbone Hybrid flooring cost?
The cost of engineered timber flooring depends on a few key things: the product itself, how it’s installed, and what’s happening with your subfloor and trims. It’s not just “boards × m²”.
Read more
How much does Herringbone Hybrid flooring cost?
1. Product cost – the boards per m²
This is the base cost of the herringbone hybrid flooring itself.
What affects it: Core thickness – Our 9.5mm herringbone hybrid costs more than thinner 6.5mm options, but feels more solid underfoot and performs better long-term. Wear layer – A 0.5mm+ wear layer lasts longer than budget 0.3mm options. Finish quality – Embossed-in-register (EIR) finishes that match the texture to the grain pattern cost more than flat prints.
Herringbone boards also cost more than standard planks in the same range – usually 10-20% more. The smaller plank size and precision-cut angles add manufacturing cost. So even before install, you're paying a premium for the pattern.
2. Installation cost – labour to lay the floor
This is where herringbone really differs from standard planks.
Herringbone takes longer. The installer needs to find the centre line, lay out the starting rows carefully, keep the pattern square, and make angled cuts at every wall. Based on quotes from installers in our network, expect to pay 20-40% more for herringbone installation compared to straight planks. If standard hybrid costs $25-35/sqm to install, herringbone is typically $35-50/sqm.
Installers price per m² but adjust for room complexity. Lots of doorways, angles, or alcoves = more cutting = higher cost.
3. Underlay, trims and transitions
The extras that catch people off guard:
Underlay – Required for floating installation. Around $5-10/sqm depending on acoustic rating and whether you need a moisture barrier.
Scotia / trims – Around skirting boards and where the herringbone meets other flooring. The angled edge cuts of herringbone need neat trim work to look right.
Transition strips – Where herringbone meets tiles, carpet, or other rooms. $15-40 each depending on type.
These aren't optional – they're part of the finished floor.
4. Wastage – higher for herringbone
Standard planks: allow 5-10% extra for cuts and waste.
Herringbone: allow 10-15% extra. The angled perimeter cuts create more offcuts that can't be reused. Complex room shapes push this higher.
Order on the generous side. Running short mid-install is expensive and stressful.
5. Subfloor prep and removal
Two variables people underestimate:
Subfloor prep – Levelling compound, grinding high spots, moisture barriers. Herringbone shows subfloor imperfections more than standard planks because the pattern draws your eye across the floor. Getting it flat matters.
Removal and disposal – Ripping up old tiles, carpet, or timber adds labour and tipping fees.
A clean, level slab with no demo is always the cheapest scenario.
6. Ballpark expectations
In simple terms for 2025:
Supply only: Good quality herringbone hybrid (mid-range) sits around $55-75/sqm. Budget options from $40-55/sqm. Premium from $75-100+/sqm.
Supply + install: By the time you add installation, underlay, trims, and wastage, a fully installed herringbone hybrid floor typically lands around $100-140/sqm for mid-range product with professional installation. That's more than standard hybrid planks, but significantly less than engineered timber herringbone or traditional parquetry.
We hope this helps!
Here are our top 3 tips when it comes to Herringbone Hybrid Flooring.
Top Tips ᯓ★
Don’t install it like cheap laminate.
Herringbone is more difficult to install than regular plank flooring. Treat it that way. Get the subfloor level, use the right tools, and leave proper expansion gaps. A rushed, budget install will ruin the look. Not confident? Contact our flooring experts!
Protect it from grit, water and chairs.
Hybrid Flooring is VERY durable but door mats, felt pads on every chair and table leg, no steam mops, no standing water is helpful. Vacuum often, damp-mop lightly with a neutral cleaner and you’re 80% of the way there.
Buy on construction, not just colour.
When comparing hybrid herringbone flooring, look at: wear layer thickness (e.g. 3mm), board thickness, the joining system (e.g. licensed click like Välinge 5G), and warranty. If those specs are weak, a nice colour won’t save you.
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How do you clean and maintain herringbone hybrid flooring?
Good news: hybrid flooring is low-maintenance. The same applies to herringbone – the pattern doesn't change how you clean it. Here's what you need to know to keep it looking good for years.
Read all cleaning tips and tricks
1. Daily and weekly care
Sweep or vacuum regularly. Dust, dirt, and grit are the enemy. They act like sandpaper underfoot – every time you walk, you're grinding tiny particles into the wear layer. Sweep or vacuum at least once a week. High-traffic areas and homes with pets or kids might need it every few days.
Use the right vacuum setting. Hard floor mode, not carpet mode. Beater bars can scratch the surface over time. A soft brush attachment or a hard floor vacuum head works best.
Wipe up spills when they happen. Hybrid is 100% waterproof, so spills won't cause damage – but liquids can get sticky or leave marks if you leave them sitting. A quick wipe with a cloth or paper towel is all it takes.
2. Periodic mopping
Damp mop, not wet mop. Use a well-wrung mop or microfibre mop – damp, not dripping. While the planks are waterproof, excess water can seep into the joins over time, and there's no benefit to soaking the floor anyway.
Use the right cleaning products. Stick to pH-neutral floor cleaners designed for vinyl or hybrid flooring. Most supermarket "hard floor" cleaners are fine – just check the label. Avoid anything abrasive, and avoid oil-based soaps or wax-based products that leave residue.
What to avoid:
- Bleach or ammonia-based cleaners (can damage the wear layer)
- Abrasive scrubbing pads or steel wool (will scratch)
- "Polish" or "shine" products (leave buildup that attracts dirt)
- Steam mops (the heat can damage hybrid flooring – this is a common mistake)
3. Protecting your floor day-to-day
Felt pads under furniture. Stick felt pads under chair legs, couch feet, table legs – anything that moves or carries weight. This prevents scratches and dents. Replace them when they wear out or pick up grit.
Mats at entry points. Doormats catch dirt, grit, and moisture before they reach your floor. This is one of the simplest and most effective things you can do. Use mats at external doors and at the transition from garage to house.
Avoid rubber-backed mats. Some rubber backings can react with hybrid flooring and cause discolouration over time. Use mats with non-staining backings, or lift mats occasionally to let the floor breathe.
Lift, don't drag. When moving furniture or heavy objects, lift them rather than dragging. Even with felt pads, dragging can scratch or scuff the surface.
Keep pet nails trimmed. Dogs with long nails can scratch any hard flooring, including hybrid. Regular nail trims reduce the wear.
4. Dealing with sunlight
Direct sun can cause fading over time. This is true of almost all flooring. If you have large windows with strong northern sun, use curtains, blinds, or UV-filtering window film to reduce exposure. Rotating rugs occasionally helps prevent uneven fading.
Herringbone's pattern can make uneven fading more noticeable than with standard planks – another reason to manage sun exposure if your room gets a lot of direct light.
5. What if something goes wrong?
Minor scratches: Light surface scratches are usually just in the coating and often only visible in certain light. They're cosmetic and don't affect the floor's performance. For small scratches, there are touch-up kits available, though results vary.
Deeper damage: If a plank is badly damaged (deep gouge, chip, burn), it can be replaced – but with herringbone, this is trickier than with standard planks. You may need to unclick back through the pattern to reach the damaged piece. For significant repairs, we'd recommend a professional installer.
Stains: Most stains wipe up easily if caught quickly. For stubborn marks (permanent marker, nail polish, etc.), try a small amount of isopropyl alcohol on a cloth – test in an inconspicuous area first.
6. What you don't need to do
One of the best things about hybrid flooring: there's a lot you can skip.
- No waxing or polishing
- No oiling or sealing
- No sanding or refinishing
- No special treatments
Just regular sweeping and occasional mopping. That's it.
The short version: Sweep often, mop occasionally with a damp mop and pH-neutral cleaner, use felt pads and door mats, avoid steam mops and harsh chemicals. Do that, and your herringbone hybrid floor will look good for 15-25 years.
Learn so much more about Herringbone Hybrid Flooring
