Herringbone Flooring

Herringbone hybrid flooring and engineered timber are a great way to bring your room to life with their distinct 45-degree angle design, adding character and a luxurious feel. Whether you're aiming to create a cosy living area or a professional setting, we have a range of herringbone flooring colours to choose from.

Your Questions About Herringbone Flooring

Here are answers to some of the most common questions about our herringbone flooring products. If you still can’t find what you’re looking for, just reach out to our team here.

Installation with herringbone flooring depends on the product you choose — some ranges can be installed as a floating floor, while others must be glued down.

With our hybrid herringbone flooring, you don’t need glue. It’s designed for floating floor installation, because the boards lock together using a modern click-lock system (commonly 2G or 5G). Once clicked in, the herringbone pattern stays tight and stable, helping prevent movement and keeping the floor looking sharp over time. This is why most hybrid herringbone flooring on the market doesn’t require glue.

Our engineered timber herringbone flooring, on the other hand, requires glue-down installation. Engineered herringbone boards are typically made with a tongue and groove profile. While tongue and groove is still very install-friendly, it relies on adhesive to keep the pattern secure and locked in place long-term — especially in a herringbone layout where stability matters. Glue-down also helps reduce the chance of boards separating if the subfloor isn’t perfectly flat or if installation isn’t spot-on.

One extra upside of glue-down herringbone flooring is flexibility: it can open up options like installing engineered boards on feature walls, which can look unreal in the right space. If you’re choosing between hybrid and engineered, installation method is one of the biggest practical differences — and it’s worth factoring in alongside budget, feel underfoot, and the finish you want.

Herringbone flooring means the floorboards are laid in a specific zig-zag pattern, rather than straight like normal planks. Each board is installed at a 90-degree angle to the next, creating that classic “broken V” look you see in high-end homes, hotels, and heritage builds.

People choose herringbone flooring because it instantly makes the floor the feature — it adds texture, movement, and a proper “wow factor” even in simple rooms.

Herringbone is often confused with chevron flooring, but the join is the giveaway:

Herringbone: boards meet at a 90° angle (rectangular planks), with the end of one board meeting the side of another.
Chevron: boards meet at a point, usually cut at 45°, so the ends form a clean, continuous V shape.

So if the pattern looks more “interlocking zig-zag,” it’s herringbone. If it looks like “perfect arrows,” it’s chevron.

Yes. Our engineered timber herringbone flooring is covered by a 25-year residential warranty, a 3-year commercial warranty, and a lifetime structural warranty.

This warranty covers manufacturing and structural defects in the engineered timber herringbone when it’s installed and maintained correctly in suitable areas. In simple terms: if your engineered timber herringbone boards fail due to a product fault (not water damage, misuse, or bad installation), you’re protected. Whether it’s for a home or a light commercial project, you can choose our herringbone flooring knowing it’s backed for the long term — including the structural core of the board for the lifetime of the floor.

For SPC herringbone flooring, the warranty periods stay the same as our standard SPC range.

It really comes down to personal preference. The main difference between the two is how the flooring is laid.

Herringbone flooring is installed in a patterned layout (that classic zig-zag), and the boards are usually shorter planks to suit the design and keep the pattern looking clean and proportional. People choose herringbone because it brings a wow factor — it feels more premium, more detailed, and turns the floor into a feature rather than just a surface you walk on.

The trade-off is installation cost. Herringbone takes longer to lay (often close to double the labour compared to a straight lay), which is why it generally costs more to install.

Standard planks are laid straight, which gives a cleaner, simpler look that a lot of people genuinely prefer — especially if they don’t want the flooring to be the main statement in the room. Straight lay is also faster and cheaper to install, and standard plank products can be more affordable overall depending on the range you choose.

Yes — you can lay vinyl flooring in a herringbone pattern, but it depends on the vinyl type.

Works well:

Vinyl planks (LVP/LVT) that are made for herringbone (often “A/B” left + right planks).
Glue-down (dryback) vinyl planks are usually the most reliable for herringbone because they don’t shift.
Click-lock rigid vinyl (SPC/WPC) can work only if the product is designed/rated for herringbone.

Usually doesn’t work / not recommended:

Sheet vinyl (rolled vinyl) — you can’t create a true plank herringbone pattern.
Loose-lay vinyl planks — more risk of movement and gaps.
Standard click planks not rated for herringbone — can cause broken locks, gapping, and failures.

Key things to know:

Herringbone needs a flatter subfloor than straight lay — imperfections show up fast.
Expect more labour + more waste (more cuts, more time), so install cost is usually higher.
Always follow the product’s install specs (locking direction / adhesive / trowel).

If you want, paste the product link/name and I’ll tell you instantly if it’s herringbone-compatible.

Herringbone flooring needs more wastage than regular straight planks because the pattern creates far more cuts and off-cuts that can’t be reused.

Typical wastage: herringbone vs regular planks

Regular straight planks: usually 5–10%

Closer to 5% for simple square rooms

Closer to 8–10% if there are doorways, robes, nib walls, etc.
Herringbone flooring: usually 12–20%

12–15% for most normal rooms

15–20% for hallways, L-shapes, lots of corners, or multiple rooms

Why herringbone flooring wastes more

The zig-zag hits walls at angles, so you’re cutting constantly around the perimeter.
Many off-cuts don’t fit back in because the pattern direction has to stay consistent.
If it’s a click system with left/right boards (or locking direction), reuse can be even more limited.

Quick rule

Straight planks: order +8% (safe for most jobs)
Herringbone flooring: order +15% (safe for most jobs)
Go +20% if the layout is chopped up or hallway-heavy.

Yes — herringbone flooring is usually more expensive than standard straight planks, but how much more depends on the product you choose (hybrid vs engineered timber) and the install.

Why herringbone costs more

1) The product itself often costs more

Herringbone boards are typically more expensive because:

You generally need more boards per m² (smaller planks to suit the pattern).
The joining/locking system can be more specialised (especially for click systems designed to hold the pattern tight).
Some ranges use left/right (A/B) boards, which adds complexity to manufacturing and packing.

2) Installation is significantly more expensive

This is usually the biggest cost jump. Herringbone takes more time because:

It requires accurate set-out and centre lines so the pattern runs straight.
There’s more cutting and wastage around edges and doorways.
The pattern has to be perfect — small errors are obvious, so installers work slower and more carefully.

Realistic cost difference

All-in (product + install), herringbone is commonly around 1.5× to 3× the cost of a standard straight-lay floor — and in most cases, the extra labour is the main reason.

Herringbone Flooring | Premium Pattern, Everyday Tough

herrinbone flooring stairs and small room

Herringbone Flooring | Designer Pattern, Practical Choice

Herringbone flooring is one of the easiest ways to make a room feel intentional. The pattern adds movement and depth, so even simple spaces look more “designed” without needing loud colours or heavy styling. A good herringbone floor works in modern builds, coastal homes, classic interiors, and everything in between — it’s a designer pattern that still feels practical day-to-day.

Herringbone flooring is the quickest way to make a space feel more high-end without changing anything else. That zig-zag layout adds movement, texture, and a proper designer look — so the floor becomes a feature, not just a background. It works in modern builds, classic homes, apartments, and renovations where you want something that feels considered and a bit more premium than standard straight planks.

When you’re choosing herringbone floors, the main decision is which type of herringbone product suits your home and budget. If you’re chasing a real timber feel and a more traditional premium finish, start with our herringbone engineered timber range: 15.3mm Herringbone Engineered Timber. If you want the herringbone look in a more practical, everyday-friendly option, check out our herringbone hybrid range: 9.5mm Herringbone Hybrid Flooring.

From there, it’s all about dialling in the style. Lighter herringbone flooring helps rooms feel bigger and brighter, mid-tones suit almost anything, and darker herringbone adds contrast and mood — especially against white walls and clean cabinetry. Matte and low-sheen finishes are popular because they keep the look natural and hide day-to-day marks better than high gloss.

If you’re stuck between a couple of options, compare colours in your actual lighting (morning vs afternoon makes a massive difference) and choose the one that looks best against your walls, furniture, and kitchen tones.

Why choose a herringbone flooring pattern?

People pick herringbone flooring because it makes the floor look intentional. It adds movement and detail, so the room feels more “designed” without needing bold furniture or feature walls. It also works insanely well in spaces that can look boring with straight planks — like hallways, entries, and long open-plan runs — because the pattern keeps your eye moving.

If you’re choosing between looks, these pages make it easy to compare:

Want the full patterned look? Start here: Herringbone Floors
Want a cleaner, simpler finish? Compare with: Plank Floors
Want a sharper “arrow” style pattern instead? See: Chevron Floors
Not sure on colour direction yet? Browse: Light Tone Flooring and Grey Tone Flooring
Want to see real installs before you commit? Hit: Gallery

Why some people don’t choose herringbone (and they’re not wrong):

It costs more to install — more set-out, more cuts, more time, more waste.
It’s less forgiving — if the layout is slightly off, you notice it fast.
It can feel “busy” if the room already has loud tiles, heavy grain cabinetry, or lots of patterns.
DIY is harder — still doable for handy people, but it’s fiddly. If DIY is the priority, start with DIY Friendly Flooring and read How to Install Hybrid Flooring.

If the goal is a floor that looks premium and different, herringbone flooring is the play. If the goal is lowest install cost and maximum simplicity, straight planks win.

How much does herringbone flooring cost to install?

Herringbone flooring install costs more than regular straight planks because it’s slower, cut-heavy, and the set-out has to be perfect. In real quotes, herringbone labour is usually ~1.5× to 2× a straight lay (sometimes more on chopped-up layouts).

Typical herringbone installation cost (labour only)

These are realistic AUD per m² ranges installers commonly quote:

Click / floating herringbone (Hybrid / SPC): $55–$90/m²
Glue-down herringbone (Engineered timber): $90–$140/m²
Glue-down solid timber herringbone: $120–$180/m² (more if it needs sanding/finishing)

Regular planks for comparison (labour only)

Straight lay floating planks: $30–$50/m²
Straight lay glue-down timber: $60–$100/m²

The “hidden” costs that change the final price

These are the add-ons that usually move the quote the most:

Old floor removal + disposal: $15–$35/m²
Subfloor prep / levelling (often required for herringbone): $25–$80/m²
Moisture barrier / primer (where needed): $5–$15/m²
Underlay (for floating): $5–$15/m²
Adhesive (for glue-down): often $10–$25/m² in materials/allowance
Skirting remove/replace or new skirting: commonly charged per lineal metre
Door trims / transitions / stairs: charged per item (can add up fast)

Quick way to estimate your install cost

Pick the labour rate (from above)
Multiply by your m²
Add prep + removal + trims

Example (50m² hybrid herringbone, floating):

Labour $70/m² → $3,500

If levelling needed $40/m² → +$2,000

Removal/disposal $20/m² → +$1,000

Total install-related ≈ $6,500 (before trims/skirting)

Hybrid Flooring: Pros and Cons You Need to Know Before You Buy

Herringbone flooring top tips

Here are our top 3 tips when it comes to Herringbone Hybrid Flooring.

Top Tips ᯓ★

Hybrid flooring is rigid. If the subfloor has dips or humps, you’ll get bounce, noisy spots, or click-joint stress. Spend the money/time on levelling and moisture checks before a single board goes down.

Hybrid needs room to move. Keep expansion gaps at walls, door frames, kitchen islands, and sliding doors. Don’t pin it down with heavy fixed cabinetry or tight trims — that’s how you get peaking or separation.

If your hybrid has attached IXPE, don’t add extra soft underlay on top — it can make the floor feel spongy and damage the locking system. If it needs underlay, use the type specified for hybrid (and match any acoustic requirements).

Brisbane Click & Collect + Australia-Wide Shipping

Is herringbone flooring worth it?

Yes — herringbone flooring is worth it for a lot of people, but it’s absolutely budget-dependent. The pattern gives you a level of “designer finish” that straight planks just don’t match, but you pay for it (mostly in labour).

Big visual upgrade per dollar (when compared to other reno moves): It can make an average room feel high-end without changing cabinetry, paint, or furniture.
Timeless pattern: Herringbone isn’t a trend that dies in 12 months — it’s been used forever, which is why it still reads as premium.
Perfect for feature areas: Entryways, hallways, living rooms, and open-plan spaces benefit most because the pattern adds movement and breaks up long runs.

If you’re weighing up product types, it’s worth comparing herringbone engineered timber vs herringbone hybrid side-by-side:

Why herringbone flooring might not be worth it

Install cost is higher: Herringbone takes more planning, more cuts, and more time. That’s the main reason budgets blow out.
More wastage: You’ll generally order more extra material than you would for straight planks.
Not everyone wants a “statement” floor: If you prefer minimal, calm interiors, straight planks can look cleaner and let furniture do the talking.

If you want a simpler (and cheaper-to-install) look to compare against, check:

Plank Flooring

And if you’re choosing between patterned styles:
Chevron Flooring

A simple rule so you don’t talk yourself into the wrong decision

If you’re already spending on quality finishes and you want the room to feel premium: yes, herringbone flooring is worth it.
If you’re trying to keep install costs tight or you’re flooring a whole house on a strict budget: straight planks usually make more sense, then you can add pattern later in a feature zone.

If you tell me your rough m² and whether it’s “one feature area” or “whole house,” I’ll tell you which option is the smarter spend.