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Lifting – also called buckling, peaking, or tenting – is when hybrid flooring arches up from the subfloor. It might be a subtle hump you can feel underfoot, or it might be dramatic enough to see from across the room.
Either way, it's not supposed to happen. And unlike minor gaps that you can tap closed, lifting usually indicates a more serious problem that won't fix itself.
The good news: once you identify the cause, most lifting issues can be resolved without replacing the entire floor. Here's how to diagnose what's happening and fix it.
⚠️ Lifting Is a Warning Sign
Unlike small gaps (often cosmetic), lifting means the floor is under stress. The longer you leave it, the more likely you'll damage the click-lock system permanently. Address it sooner rather than later.
What Lifting Actually Looks Like
Lifting can present in a few different ways:
Peaking / Tenting
Planks push up at the joints, creating a ridge or tent shape. Most common at long-edge seams.
Buckling / Arching
Larger area lifts in a wave or arch. Often happens in the middle of the room or near a wall.
Edge Lifting
Planks lift at edges, especially near walls or under windows. Often moisture or heat-related.
The 5 Main Causes of Lifting
In my experience, lifting almost always comes down to one of these five issues:
How to Diagnose Your Floor
Work through this checklist to identify the likely cause:
Question 1: Where is the lifting?
- Near walls/doorways → Likely expansion gap issue
- In middle of room → Likely pinned floor or heat
- Near windows → Likely heat-related
- Near bathroom/kitchen → Possible moisture
- Throughout entire floor → Acclimatisation or widespread expansion issue
Question 2: When did it start?
- Within weeks of installation → Installation issue (gap, pinning, acclimatisation)
- During summer/heatwave → Likely heat-related expansion
- After heavy rain or plumbing issue → Moisture from below
- Gradually getting worse → Ongoing expansion pressure building up
Question 3: Check the expansion gaps
Remove a piece of scotia and look at the gap between the flooring and wall. Is there 8-10mm of space? Or is the flooring hard against the wall?
No gap or very small gap = almost certainly the cause
Question 4: Check for pinning
Look for:
- Scotia or beading nailed through the flooring (not just into the wall)
- Door frames sitting directly on the floor
- Heavy appliances or furniture without felt pads
- Transition strips screwed through the planks
How to Fix Each Cause
Fix #1: Create or Clear Expansion Gaps
This is the most common fix. If the floor is tight against walls or obstacles, you need to create space.
Steps:
- Remove scotia/skirting to access the floor edges
- Use an oscillating multi-tool to trim 8-10mm off the flooring edge where it's tight
- Check around all walls, door frames, pipes, and fixed objects
- Allow 24-48 hours for the floor to settle back into place
- Reinstall scotia (attached to wall only, never to the floor)
For door frames, you may need to undercut the frame so flooring can slide underneath with room to move.
Fix #2: Release Pinned Flooring
Find what's holding the floor and release it:
- Scotia nailed through floor: Remove and reinstall attached to wall only
- Transition strips screwed through planks: Remove screws, use adhesive instead or attach to subfloor only
- Heavy furniture: Lift (don't drag) and add felt pads underneath
- Door frames on floor: Undercut the frames
Fix #3: Address Moisture Issues
If moisture is the cause, this is more involved:
- Identify the moisture source (rising damp, leak, spill that got underneath)
- Fix the source – this may require professional help
- Lift affected flooring and allow subfloor to dry completely
- If no moisture barrier was installed, add one before reinstalling
- Reinstall flooring once everything is dry
For concrete slabs, moisture testing should show below 75% relative humidity before flooring goes back down. See our subfloor preparation guide for moisture testing details.
⚠️ Don't Ignore Moisture
Moisture problems get worse, not better. If you suspect moisture from below, investigate properly. Leaving a wet subfloor will lead to mould, ongoing floor damage, and potentially structural issues.
Fix #4: Manage Heat
For heat-related lifting:
- Sunlight: Use blinds, curtains, or UV-filtering window film during peak sun hours
- Underfloor heating: Reduce temperature – surface should never exceed 27°C (see our underfloor heating guide)
- Appliances: Ensure dishwashers, ovens etc. aren't directing heat at floor level
Once the heat source is controlled, the floor should settle back. If it doesn't, there may also be an expansion gap issue preventing it from returning to position.
Fix #5: Wait (If Acclimatisation Issue)
If flooring was installed without acclimatisation and lifting appeared shortly after, the floor may settle once it reaches equilibrium with room conditions. Give it 2-4 weeks with normal room temperature and humidity.
However, if expansion gaps are inadequate, the floor won't settle on its own – you'll need to create gaps as described above.
Prevention for Future Installs
If you're installing new flooring or reinstalling after a fix, get these right:
| Requirement | Specification | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Expansion gap at walls | 8-10mm minimum | Allows natural expansion |
| Expansion gap at fixed objects | 8-10mm around pipes, islands, stairs | Often forgotten – causes problems |
| Acclimatisation | 48-72 hours in room | Flooring adjusts to room conditions |
| Moisture barrier | Required over concrete | Prevents moisture transmission |
| Scotia attachment | To wall only, never floor | Floor must float freely |
| Door frame treatment | Undercut or leave gap | Common blocking point |
| Underfloor heating | Max 27°C surface temp | Prevents heat expansion |
For complete installation guidance, see our hybrid flooring installation guide.
"Floor started lifting near our sliding door about two months after install. Turned out there was no expansion gap at the door track – flooring was butted right up to it. Cut back 10mm with an oscillating tool, floor settled back within a day. Lesson learned."
— Craig S., Gold Coast
When to Call a Professional
Some situations need expert help:
🔴 Widespread severe lifting
May indicate fundamental installation problems requiring full reinstallation.
🔴 Confirmed moisture problem
Need to identify source, may require waterproofing or plumbing repairs.
🔴 Click-locks damaged
If lifting has damaged the locking system, planks may need replacement.
🔴 Warranty claim
If you suspect a product defect, document thoroughly and contact the retailer.
The Australasian Timber Flooring Association (ATFA) can help you find accredited flooring professionals for assessment and repair.
Quick Reference: Symptom → Cause → Fix
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Lifting near walls/doorways | No expansion gap | Cut back flooring edge 8-10mm |
| Lifting in middle of room | Floor pinned somewhere | Find and release pinning point |
| Lifting near windows (sunny) | Heat expansion | Add blinds/film + check gaps |
| Lifting near wet areas + smell | Moisture from below | Lift floor, dry, fix source, reinstall |
| Lifting soon after install | No acclimatisation | Wait 2-4 weeks + check gaps |
📚 Related Guides
Need Help Diagnosing the Problem?
Send us photos showing the lifting and where it's located – we can often identify the likely cause and suggest the best fix. Call 0431 311 633 or send us a message.
Need replacement planks?
If planks are damaged, we may be able to match your existing floor.
Last updated: December 2025 · Written by the team at Hybrid Floors Australia
